Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
