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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.